調香師の部屋

香りを覚えよう

香りの覚え方って特にこれというものは無くて、反復練習が一番なのですが、それでもばらばらと適当にやっていたのではなかなか覚えることができません。そこで表を元に覚えてみるのはいかがでしょうか。この表が果たして適当かどうかはやってみて判断するしかないのですが、ちょっと場所が合ってるかどうか怪しいと思われる個所もあります。また現在生産されていないものなんてのも入ってしまっています（ToT)。下さいなんていわれても無理なものが結構入っていますので、ご了承ください。それにしてもこれを全部そろえるだけで結構大変ですね。

覚え方は横の列で似たような香りが並んでいます。似たような植物、似たような化学構造をもつものの関係を覚えていきます。Solvent（溶剤）なんてのも入っています。香料の溶解性も重要なファクターのひとつです。やっているうちにだんだんと匂いをかぐと化学構造が予想できるようになっていきます。化学名のものもあるし、製品名のものも入っています。製品名のものは大抵は分析によって見出された微量成分であることが多く、また複雑な化学構造をしているので呼びやすいように製品名で呼ぶことが多いです。製品名で呼ばれているもののことを業界ではスペシャリティーなどと呼ぶことがあります。またただ精油は精油の香りとして覚えるのではなく、主成分などを覚えると、なおさら覚えやすくなっていきます。精油を覚えるときは、主成分、産地も覚えましょう。

ちょっと見づらいかも・・・。

Natural　Productからです

	1	2	3	４	５	６	７	８	９	１０
Rosey Note	Geranium	Palmarosa	Otto Rose	Rose absolute
Spicy Note	Bay leaf	Caraway	Cardamon	Carrot seed	Cascarilla	Cassia	Celery	Cinnamin Bark	Clove	Coriander
Spicy Note	Cumin	Ginger	Mace	Marjoram	Nutmeg	Parsley	Pepper	Piment	Shiso	Thyme
Tabbacco Note	Tabbacco ab.
Woody Note	Amyris	Cederwood	Guaiacwood	Oakmoss	Patchouly	Sandalwood	Treemoss	Vetiver
Miscellaneous Note	Abies	Rosewood	Calamus	Citronella	Cognac or Winelees	Davana	Ho leaf	Hop	Mate ab.	Rue
Miscellaneous Note	Spikenard	Tagetes	Tansy	Tea ab.	Turpentine	Valerian
Green&Fruity Note	Blackcurrant Buds ab.	Galbanum
Herbal&Aromatic Note	Chamomile Blue	Chamomile Roman	Hay	Hyssop	Costus	Laurel leaf	Lavandin	Lavender	Myrtle	Origanum
Herbal&Aromatic Note	Rosemary	Sage	Spike Lavender		Star anis
Honey Note	Beeswax ab.	Honey ab.			Liatrix ab.
Leather Note	Birth Tar Rectified	Cade
Lemon type Note	Lemonglass	Litsea Cubeba	Melissa	Verbena	Mandarin
Marine Note	Seaweed				Juniperberry
Medicinal Note	Bitter Almond	Buchu leaf	Cajuput	Camphor	Cassie ab.	Eucalyptus	Wintergreen
Minty Note	Pennyroyal	Peppermint	Spearmint
Resinous Note	Elemi	Myrrh	Olibanum	Opoponax		Styrax
Animal Note	Ambergris	Castreum	Civet	Musk
Animal Note	Ambretteseed	Angericaroot	Angericaseed	Cistus-Labdanum	Costus	Clarysage
Anise Note	Anise	Basil	Bitter Fennel	Sweet Fennel	Star anise	Taraggon
Balsamic Note	Copaiba Balsam	Peru Balsam	Tolu Balsam	Benzoin	Liatrix ab.	Mastic ab.	Melilot ab.		Vanilla
Bitter Orange Note	Neroli	Orangeflower ab.	Petitgrain (from Bergamot)	Petitgrian (from Lemon)	Petitgrain (from Mandarin)
Citrus Note	Bergamot	Grapefruit	Lemon	Lime	Mandarin	Bitter Orange	Sweet Orange	Tonkabeans
Coniferous Note	Armoise	Cedar leaf	Cypress	Fir Balsam ab.	Juniperberry	Pine
Floral Note	Boronia ab.	Broom ab.	Cananga	Carnation ab.	Cassie ab.	Champaca ab.	Everlasting flower ab.	Hyacinth ab.	Jasmin ab.	Jonquil ab.
	Karo-Karounde ab.	Longoza ab.	Marigold ab.	Mimoza ab.	Narcissus ab.	Orris Concrete	Osmanthus ab.	Reseda ab.	Tuberose ab.	Violetleaf ab.
	Ylangylang

次はChemical　Productです。

	1	2	3	４	５	６	７	８	９	１０
Powdery Note	Coumarin	Ethyl maltol	Ethyl vanillin	Heliotropin	Maltol	Vanillin
Rose Note	Benzophenone	Citronellol	Damancenones	Damascones	Dimethy benzyl carbinyl acetate	Dimethyl octanol	Diphenyl methane	Diphenyl oxide	Geraniol	Geranyl acetate
	Geranyl Benzoate	Geranyl butyrate	Geranyl formate	Nerol	Phenoxaflor	Phenoxanol	Phenylethyl acetate	β-Phenylethyl alcohol	Phenylethyl isobutyrate	Phenylethyl phenyl acetate
	Phenylethyl salicylate	Rhodinol	Rhodinyl acetate	Rose oxide	Tricholoro methyl pheny carbinyl acetate
Spicy Note	Acetyl eugenol	Acetyl isoeugenol	Benzyl iseugenol	Cinnamic aldehyde	Cinnamo nitrile	Cinnamic aldehyde	Eugenol	Isoeugenol	Methyl eugenol	Methyl isoeugenol
Woody Note	Boisambrene forte	Cedramber	Cedrol	Cedryl avetate	Guaiyl avetate	Ionones	Iso E Super	Kephakis	Madrox
Woody Note	Methyl Ionones	Nopyl acetate	Santalol	Santalyl acetate	Synthetic Oakmoss	Synthetic Sandalwood	Vertenex	Vertofix Coeur	Vetiverol	Vetiveryl acetate
Solvent	Benzyl benzoate	Carbitol	Diethyl phthalate	Dipropylene glycol	Ethyl alcohol	Propylene glycol	Triethyl citrate
Greeen Note	Bromstyrol	cis-3-Hexenol	cis-3-Hexenyl acetate	cis-3-Hexenyl benzoate	cis-3-Hexenyl salicylate	Hyacinth gricerin acetal	Hydratropic aldehyde	Ligustral	Methyl heptin carbonate	Methyl octin carbonate
Greeen Note	2,6-Nonadienol & 2,6-Nonadienal	Phenylacetaldehyde	Phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal	Phenylethyl dimethyl carbinol	Phenyl propyl alcohol	Phenyl propyl aldehyde	Stemone	Styrallyl acetate
Honey Note	Benzyl phenyl acetate	Ethyl phenyl acetate	Eugenyl phenyl acetate	Linellyl phenyl acetate	Methyl phenyl acetate	Phenyl acetic acid
Jasmin Note	Alpha-Amyl cinnamic aldehyde	Benzyl acetate	Benzyl alcohol	Benzyl formate	Benzyl propionate	Benzyl salicylate	Fleuramone	Gelsone	Jasminal	Jasmin lactone
Jasmin Note	cis-Jasmone	Jessemal	Methyl dihydro jasmonate	Methyl jasmonate
Lavender Note	Camphor	Dimethyl hydroquinone	Methyl amyl ketone	Terpinyl acetate
Marine note	Calone
Medicinal Note	Benzaldehyde	Methyl salicylate
Minty Note	(d-,l-)Carvone	l-Menthol	l-Menthyl acetate
Musk Note	Ambrettolide	Cyclopentadecanolide	Ethylene brassylate	Galaxolide	Musk DTI	Musk ketone	Tonalide	Cashmeran
Narcissus Note	p-Cresyl acetate	p-Cresyl phenyl acetate
Aldehydic Note	Adoxal	Aldehyde C-8	Aldehyde C-9	Aldehyde C-10	Aldehyde C-11 Undecyl	Aldehyde C-11 Undecylene	Aldehyde C-11 MOA	Aldehyde C-12 Lauryl	Aldehyde C-12 MNA
Animal Note	Isobutyl quinoline	Ambrox	Grisalva	Indole	p-Methyl quinoline	Isopropyl quinoline	Skatol	Tetrahydro p-methyl quinoline
Anise Note	Anethole	Anisic alcohol	Anisyl acetate	Anisyl formate	Estragole	Ethyl salicylate
Balsamic Note	Amyl benzoate	Amyl salicylate	Isobutyl salicylate	Cinnamyl acetate	Cinnamic alcohol	Ethyl cinnamate	Linalyl cinnamate	Methyl cinnamate	Phenyl propyl acetate
Bitter Orange Note	Aurantiol	Dimethyl anthranilate	Ethyl anthranilate	Linalyl benzoate	Methyl anthranilate	beta-Methyl naphthyl ketone	beta-Naphthyl ethylether	beta-Naphthyl methylether
Citrus Note	Citral	Citronellal	Citronellyl acetate	Dihydro myrcenol	Gerano nitrile	d-Limonene	Linalyl acetate	Myrac aldehyde	Myrcenyl acetate
Coniferous Note	Borneol	Bornyl acetate	Isobornyl acetate
Floral Note	alpha-Anisyl propanal	Cyclamen aldehyde	Dimethyl benzyl carbinol	Ethyl linalool	Helional	Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde	Hydratropic alcohol	Hydroxy citronellal	Irone	Lilial
Floral Note	Linalool	Lyral	Majantol	Mayol	p-Methyl acetophenone	Methyl benzoate	Piperonyl acetone	Terpineol	Tetrahydro mugenol
Fruity Note	Aldehyde C-14	Aldehyde C-16	Aldehyde C-18	Allyl amyl glycol	Allyl cyclogalbanate	Allyl ionone	Amyl acetate	Cyclgalbanate	gamma-Decalactone	Ethyl acetate
Fruity Note	Fructone	trans-2-Hexenal	Hexyl acetate	Oxyphenylon	Verdox

　(表はフレグランス　香りのデザイン　フレグランスジャーナル社より）